UNITECH HOME BUILDING MAINTENANCE L.L.C is an independent repair company. We are not an authorized service agent of, and are not affiliated with or endorsed by, AEG. The name “AEG” and all other manufacturer names and model references on this page are trademarks of their respective owners and are used only to identify the equipment we service.
Our Starting Prices
Our own rates, set and verified by our technical team — not estimates. Published up front so you can compare before you call. All prices exclude 5% VAT.
| Service | Starting price (AED) |
|---|---|
| On-site diagnosis / call-out Waived when you approve the repair | 100 |
| Washing machine — drain pump | from 250 |
| Washing machine — door lock / PCB | from 350 |
| Dishwasher — inlet valve / drain pump | from 260 |
| Oven / cooking range — element or thermostat | from 220 |
| Dryer — heating element / belt | from 250 |
Final price confirmed on site after diagnosis. No work starts without your approval.
- VAT — all prices exclude 5% VAT.
- Spare parts — quoted separately and approved before work begins. We use OEM parts where available, and disclose high-grade equivalents before fitting.
- Warranty — 90 days on parts and labour. See our warranty terms.
- Payment — cash, card or bank transfer.
Booking an independent AEG repair
We are a licensed UAE repair company working across Dubai, Sharjah, Abu Dhabi and Ajman, 24 hours a day. Every repair carries a 90-day warranty on parts and labour, and the call-out is waived when you approve the work. If your appliance is still under AEG warranty, use AEG's own service channel first — an independent repair may affect that cover.
Which AEG appliances we repair
We service AEG washing machines, dryers, dishwashers, ovens, hobs and cooker hoods. Every fault is tested and confirmed before any part is replaced, and you approve the price before work starts.
Common AEG fault codes and what they actually mean
These are codes we are called out for on AEG appliances in the UAE. A code narrows the search — it does not name the broken part on its own, which is why every job starts with a test rather than a guess.
E10 — washing machine
Water supply fault. The machine did not take in the water it expected within the time the control board allows, so the cycle halts. AEG groups E11 and C1 with E10 as the same water supply problem.
Usually: Supply tap turned off or only part open, a kinked or crushed inlet hose, a blocked inlet filter screen at the hose connection, low building water pressure, or a failed inlet solenoid valve. In UAE apartments a partly closed isolation valve behind the machine is a frequent culprit.
E20 — washing machine
Drainage fault. The machine could not pump the water out within its allowed time, so the cycle stops with water still in the drum. AEG groups E21 and C2 with E20 as the same draining problem.
Usually: A clogged drain pump filter (lint, coins, hair grips), debris jamming the pump impeller, a blocked or kinked drain hose, or a blocked standpipe or sink trap connection. A failed drain pump is the usual cause when the filter and hose are clear.
E40 — washing machine
Door lock fault. The control board cannot confirm the door is properly closed and locked, so the machine refuses to start or to continue the cycle.
Usually: Laundry trapped in the door seal preventing a clean close, a worn or misaligned door catch or hinge, or a failed door interlock unit or its wiring.
i10 — dishwasher
Water inlet fault. The dishwasher did not take in the water it needs for the wash. AEG lists i11 and, on some models, AL5 or C1 as the same fault, signalled on display-free models by one beep or one flash of the warning light.
Usually: The supply tap under the sink closed or only cracked open, a kinked inlet hose, a clogged mesh filter in the hose union, or weak incoming water pressure. On aqua-stop hoses the safety valve may have tripped.
i20 — dishwasher
Draining fault. Waste water is not leaving the machine within the expected time, typically leaving standing water in the base of the tub. AEG lists C2, F2 and AL6 as the same fault, signalled on display-free models by two beeps or two flashes.
Usually: Food debris in the coarse and fine filters at the bottom of the tub, a blocked or badly routed drain hose, a blocked sink-trap spigot, or a drain pump that has jammed or failed.
i30 — dishwasher
Water leak detected. AEG states this may indicate an internal leak caused by water collecting in the base of the appliance, and the machine stops the cycle. AEG's own guidance is to close the water tap, check installation, levelling, loading, filters, spray arms, sump and door seal, and to arrange a repair if the code returns.
Usually: An internal leak — a perished door seal, a split spray-arm feed or hose, a leaking sump or pump seal, or overfilling caused by a faulty pressure sensor. Excess detergent causing heavy foaming can also trip it.
AEG model families we see in UAE homes
AEG does not push its numbered European series in UAE retail, so local listings are by individual model code. Laundry models carry an L prefix and built-in ovens a B or K prefix.
AEG parts in the UAE
Because AEG's UAE line-up is listed by model code rather than series, the code on the rating plate is the only reliable way to order the right part.
We confirm the exact part, its availability and the expected wait with you before the repair is approved. Where an original part is discontinued or slow to source, we say so and tell you what the alternative is before anything is fitted — including whether it is an OEM part or a high-grade equivalent.
How the repair works
- Call or WhatsApp with the model number and the symptom.
- On-site diagnosis — the fault is tested and confirmed, not guessed.
- Fixed price, approved by you before any work starts. Parts quoted separately.
- Tested in front of you, then 90 days of warranty on the repair.
Where we cover
We serve Dubai, Sharjah, Abu Dhabi and Ajman, 24 hours a day including weekends and public holidays, with no out-of-hours surcharge. Our registered office is in Ajman and our technicians travel to you.
AEG repair questions
My AEG washing machine is showing E10 and will not fill — can I check anything myself before calling?
Yes, and it often saves you a visit. Check that the supply tap behind or under the machine is fully open, that the inlet hose is not kinked or crushed against a wall, and that the small mesh filter where the hose screws onto the tap is not choked with scale or grit. If all three are clear and the machine still will not fill, the inlet valve or the control board is involved and needs a technician. We work across Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman and Abu Dhabi and can attend the same day in most areas.
My AEG washer has stopped mid-cycle with water still in the drum and an E20 code. What now?
E20 means the machine cannot pump the water out. Nine times out of ten it is the drain pump filter behind the small hatch at the bottom front of the machine — put a shallow tray and towels down first, because water will come out. If the filter is clean and the drain hose is not kinked or pushed too far into the standpipe, the pump itself has usually failed and needs replacing. Our repairs carry a 90-day warranty covering both parts and labour.
My AEG dishwasher shows i30 and has shut down. Is it safe to keep using it?
No — stop using it. i30 means the machine has detected water sitting in its base tray and has shut itself down to avoid flooding your kitchen. Close the water tap feeding the dishwasher and leave it off. Something inside is leaking, commonly a door seal, a spray-arm feed, or a sump or pump seal, and it needs to be opened up and traced. Call us and we will attend; we are reachable 24/7.
My AEG oven is showing an F code. Does that tell you what is wrong?
Partly. AEG deliberately does not publish what each individual F code means to consumers — its own support page lists dozens of F codes and states they are diagnostic pointers for engineers rather than DIY instructions. One thing worth trying first is switching the oven off at the wall for about 30 seconds and back on, which clears transient faults. If the code returns, note the exact code and tell us when you call; it genuinely narrows down what we bring. We are an independent repair company, not an agent of the manufacturer.
Do you charge a call-out fee if I decide not to go ahead with the repair?
We charge a call-out for the visit and diagnosis. If you approve the repair, that call-out charge is waived and you only pay for the job. If you decide not to proceed after we have diagnosed it, the call-out stands — you will know the exact figure before we come out, with no surprises added afterwards.
Are you connected to AEG, and does using you affect my warranty?
We are an independent appliance repair company — UNITECH HOME BUILDING MAINTENANCE L.L.C, trading as 24x7 Customer Care. We are not an agent of AEG or of any manufacturer, and we have no affiliation with them. If your appliance is still inside its manufacturer warranty period, contact your retailer or the brand's warranty channel first, because an independent repair can affect that cover. Once the manufacturer warranty has ended, we are a straightforward alternative — and our own 90-day warranty on parts and labour applies to the work we do.
My AEG cooker hood has stopped extracting properly. Is that a repair or just cleaning?
Often it is neither dramatic nor expensive. Grease-saturated metal mesh filters are the usual reason extraction drops off, and in UAE kitchens they clog faster than most people expect. Charcoal filters on recirculating hoods are consumable and need replacing rather than washing. If the filters are clean and the motor is noisy, weak or dead, or the lights and controls have failed, that is a genuine repair. We service AEG chimney and under-cabinet hoods across Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman and Abu Dhabi.
Can you come out at night or on a weekend?
Yes. Our line is open 24/7, so you can reach a person whatever the hour, and we cover Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman and Abu Dhabi. If your washing machine has flooded or your dishwasher is leaking, turn off the water supply to the appliance while you wait for us — that stops the situation getting worse.
My AEG induction hob has stopped heating on one zone. Is it worth repairing?
Usually yes. A single dead zone on an induction hob is most often the power module or the coil for that zone rather than the whole hob, and it is far cheaper to replace than the appliance. Before calling, confirm the pan is actually induction-compatible — a magnet should stick firmly to its base — because a non-magnetic pan will simply not heat and is mistaken for a fault surprisingly often. We will diagnose it, tell you the cost, and you decide from there.
Call-out fees, VAT and what each repair typically costs are set out on our pricing page. What the 90-day cover includes, and what it does not, is on warranty terms.