Fast, reliable repair for Candy home appliances, by an independent repair company.
UNITECH HOME BUILDING MAINTENANCE L.L.C is an independent repair company. We are not an authorized service agent of, and are not affiliated with or endorsed by, Candy. The name “Candy” and all other manufacturer names and model references on this page are trademarks of their respective owners and are used only to identify the equipment we service.
Our own rates, set and verified by our technical team — not estimates. Published up front so you can compare before you call. All prices exclude 5% VAT.
| Service | Starting price (AED) |
|---|---|
| On-site diagnosis / call-out Waived when you approve the repair | 100 |
| Washing machine — drain pump | from 250 |
| Washing machine — door lock / PCB | from 350 |
| Refrigerator — thermostat / sensor | from 280 |
| Refrigerator — gas recharge | from 400 |
| Dishwasher — inlet valve / drain pump | from 260 |
| Dryer — heating element / belt | from 250 |
| Microwave — magnetron / door switch | from 220 |
Final price confirmed on site after diagnosis. No work starts without your approval.
We are a licensed UAE repair company working across Dubai, Sharjah, Abu Dhabi and Ajman, 24 hours a day. Every repair carries a 90-day warranty on parts and labour, and the call-out is waived when you approve the work. If your appliance is still under Candy warranty, use Candy's own service channel first — an independent repair may affect that cover.
We service Candy washing machines, dryers, dishwashers, refrigerators and built-in microwaves. Every fault is tested and confirmed before any part is replaced, and you approve the price before work starts.
These are codes we are called out for on Candy appliances in the UAE. A code narrows the search — it does not name the broken part on its own, which is why every job starts with a test rather than a guess.
Water fill fault. The machine has not taken in the water it expected within the time the control allows, so it stops the programme. Usual causes are a closed or low-pressure supply tap, a kinked or trapped fill hose, a blocked inlet filter, or a failed inlet valve.
Usually: Closed or partly open inlet tap, a kinked or crushed fill hose, a blocked inlet filter screen at the hose connection, or low incoming pressure. On a UAE building supply a clogged inlet mesh from scale and sediment is a frequent culprit; a failed inlet solenoid valve or pressure sensor is the next thing to check.
Drain fault. The machine has not emptied the tub within the time the cycle allows, so it stops with water still in the drum. Most often a blocked pump filter, a kinked or blocked drain hose, or a blocked household waste connection; less often a failed drain pump.
Usually: Blocked pump filter (coins, lint, hair grips), a kinked or blocked drain hose, a drain standpipe set at the wrong height, or debris jamming the drain pump impeller. A worn-out drain pump or a faulty pressure switch reading are the electrical causes.
Anti-flood (leak) protection tripped. Water has collected in the base tray, raising the float switch, so the dishwasher stops and sounds an alarm. Causes are a genuine leak from a hose, seal, sump or door gasket, or a faulty float/overflow switch or its wiring triggering the alarm with no real leak present.
Usually: Too much detergent, or hand-wash/non-automatic detergent used in an automatic machine. Also seen when the water level pressure sensor or its air tube gives a false high reading, or an inlet valve fails to shut fully and keeps feeding water.
Door fault. The control cannot confirm the door is properly shut and locked, so the cycle will not start or the door will not release at the end. Check for laundry trapped in the seal and that the door is fully latched; otherwise the door interlock, its wiring, or the connection to the control board. On some model generations E07 is instead reported as a motor fault, so the machine's own manual should be checked.
Usually: Laundry trapped in the door seal preventing full closure, a worn door catch or misaligned hinge, or a failed door interlock (PTC lock). Damaged wiring between the interlock and the main board also produces this.
Anti-flood (leak) protection tripped. Water has collected in the base tray, raising the float switch, so the dishwasher stops and sounds an alarm. Causes are a genuine leak from a hose, seal, sump or door gasket, or a faulty float/overflow switch or its wiring triggering the alarm with no real leak present.
Usually: A leaking door seal, a split or loose fill/drain hose connection, a cracked sump or spray arm feed, or an overfill caused by a failed inlet valve. Occasionally the float switch itself sticks. Water supply should be shut off before the machine is moved or investigated.
Heating fault. The water heating element is not working correctly, or the filter plate is clogged and restricting flow, so the heating stage cannot complete. Start by cleaning the filter plate; if the code returns, the heating element, its thermostat/NTC or the wiring needs checking by an engineer.
Usually: A clogged filter plate or coarse filter restricting circulation, a failed heating element or flow-through heater, a faulty NTC temperature sensor, or a tripped thermal cut-out. In hard-water areas limescale build-up on the element accelerates this failure.
Candy's UAE catalogue puts a regional suffix on its model codes, usually -19 or -96. Washing machines run under the Smart Pro, Smart Pro Inverter and RapidO names, carrying CSO and RO model prefixes.
Candy's UAE models carry a regional suffix such as -19 or -96, and a part for the European version of the same model will not always fit.
We confirm the exact part, its availability and the expected wait with you before the repair is approved. Where an original part is discontinued or slow to source, we say so and tell you what the alternative is before anything is fitted — including whether it is an OEM part or a high-grade equivalent.
We serve Dubai, Sharjah, Abu Dhabi and Ajman, 24 hours a day including weekends and public holidays, with no out-of-hours surcharge. Our registered office is in Ajman and our technicians travel to you.
E3 on a Candy washing machine means the water that should have been pumped out is still sitting in the tub, so the machine has stopped the programme. The most common causes are a blocked pump filter, a kinked or blocked drain hose, or debris jammed in the drain pump. Before calling anyone, switch the machine off at the wall and check the pump filter behind the small hatch at the front bottom, keeping a shallow tray and towel ready because water will come out. If the filter is clear and E3 comes back, the pump or the pressure sensor is the likely fault and it needs a technician.
We are an independent appliance repair company. We are not an agent for, nor affiliated with, the manufacturer of your appliance. We repair Candy washing machines, dryers, dishwashers and refrigerators as a third party. If your appliance is still inside its manufacturer warranty period, you should use the manufacturer's own warranty channel first, because an independent repair may affect that cover. We are the right choice once the manufacturer warranty has expired, or when you want a faster or more convenient option and are happy to pay for the repair yourself.
We cover Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman and Abu Dhabi. Our line is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, so you can book at any hour, including evenings and weekends. That matters most with a refrigerator fault, where waiting until the next working day can mean losing everything inside. When you call, tell us the emirate and area and we will give you the earliest realistic slot rather than an optimistic one.
The call-out fee is waived when you approve the repair. In other words, if the technician diagnoses the fault and you agree to go ahead with the work, you are not paying separately for the visit. If you decide not to proceed after diagnosis, the call-out applies. The technician will confirm the fault, the parts needed and the total cost with you before starting any work, so you are never committed to a repair you have not agreed to.
We give a 90-day warranty covering both the parts we fit and the labour we carry out. If the same fault returns within that period, we come back and put it right at no extra cost. The warranty covers the specific repair performed, not unrelated faults that develop elsewhere in the appliance afterwards. Keep your job sheet or invoice, as that is what identifies the repair and its date.
No, stop using it. E4 on a Candy dishwasher means the leak-detection system in the base has been triggered, so the machine has shut itself down deliberately. Turn off the water supply valve to the dishwasher and switch it off at the socket. Do not keep resetting and restarting it, because a live leak behind or under a built-in unit can damage the kitchen cabinetry and flooring well before you see the water. Common causes are a perished door seal, a loose hose connection or a cracked sump, all of which need the machine pulled out and inspected properly.
Usually yes, and it is worth diagnosing before assuming the worst. A Candy refrigerator that runs but does not cool is often suffering from a blocked or iced-up evaporator, a failed defrost component, a fan that has stopped circulating cold air, or a dirty condenser coil overheating in a hot UAE kitchen. Those are repairable. A genuine sealed-system or compressor failure is a bigger job and is where replacement starts to make sense on an older unit. A technician can tell you which of the two you are looking at, and you decide from there.
It depends on the model and the specific component. Common wear parts like drain pumps, door interlocks, heating elements and inlet valves are generally easier to source than model-specific control boards or cosmetic panels on older machines. Our technician confirms whether the part is available, how long it will take and what it costs before you approve anything. If a part cannot be sourced at a sensible price or time, we will tell you plainly rather than leaving your appliance stripped down and waiting.
Very often, yes. On a Candy condenser or heat-pump dryer, long cycle times usually point to restricted airflow or a condenser that cannot shed heat: a clogged lint filter, a blocked condenser unit or heat exchanger, a full water tank that has not been emptied, or a blocked drain path. Cleaning the filter after every load and rinsing the condenser filter regularly fixes a good share of these. If cycles are still running long after that, the fault is likely in the heating circuit, the thermistor or the fan, and it needs inspection.
Call-out fees, VAT and what each repair typically costs are set out on our pricing page. What the 90-day cover includes, and what it does not, is on warranty terms.